My tummy was never once full in our whole life until two years after we came to Australia. Our family was from the poorest place in Vietnam that you could find, and when I was growing up, most of our food consisted of stuff collected from the side of the road, if you could find some. When we went to a party, even if we hadn’t eaten anything all day, we would tell everybody that we were full - that was part of the tradition, because nobody else had any food either.

I still remember the best meal I had . . .